Today was weird. But good. My spirits are lifted and even though I didn't see as much as I would have liked and my food is being messed with (it's pouring and the restaurants around here are packed - so it's room service or McD's because I'm starving), I feel good. Tomorrow is gonna be a looong day, or rather, two days without good sleep. So really, this is likely my last entry from Germany. Weird. Suddenly this post seems so much bigger. Eh, I'll leave a post trip summary for once I'm back. :)

This morning I got up early and took a series of trains into Dachau. It felt weird, planning to do this. The historian in me was in direct conflict with the person. I was curious, but my heart was breaking for all those people. So many people. So many types of people. I didn't realize, until I was there, just how many French were imprisoned. The Holocaust is one of end of history that I actually do believe in revisionist history for. Apologies need to be made. Also, modern day Germans cannot continue to bear the load of blame for what those before them did, many in an effort to protect their own families. I feel the same way about slavery in America. I felt so many emotions today as I rode into town. I kept looking around at all the shops and beauty parlors and got angry. Why didn't they burn this place to the ground and salt the earth?? Didn't people know what went on here? I found out inside that when Dachau was liberated, the Americans marched the citizens of Dachau through to look at the piles of dead bodies and the living arrangements to see just what they had either been ignoring or were honestly unaware of. I think the German citizens (not to be confused with those that did the deeds) have paid their dues. I broke down in the crematorium. All I could think as I passed through was, "I'm sorry. I'm so sorry. I'm sorry you had to endure this. I'm sorry your suffering was so great." It only rained (on me) today in Dachau. The rest of the time outside was lovely. But the sun was still shining there. It gave the impression that the place is so desolate, it never stops raining. And in a way, I don't think it ever does. It made me think, several times, of the childish idea that rain meant God was crying. I can't imagine that he wasn't. I took very few pictures because I felt like a ghoul even being there, but there were some very powerful images I needed to capture. I've never been in a more wasted and yet populated place. I'm also conflicted on the complaint I overheard from many Americans, that it wasn't kept up well enough. They were referring to weeds and buildings showing wear and tear but how do you maintain something that awful? Again, the historian in me made a donation as I left, but the person in me just wanted to see the years take it. I was proud of the Germans for their remarkably even handed portrayal of the events. They didn't spare anyone and they didn't needlessly blame people who weren't involved.

I also wanted to punch several German high schoolers in the back of the head while I was there. But that's not really here or there...

After that, I ventured back into Munich to see the Englischer Gartens and maybe some nudists. At the very least the Chinese Tower. I greatly underestimated that park. I have to go back tomorrow. No one could tell me which train stop to go to for the good stuff, so based on my subway map, I guessed and chose poorly. I'll be going back tomorrow. It's lovely, I just wanted something a little more than "pretty park" because Wisconsin has a lot of those.

I think that's it. Hopefully I'll be able to pick up Wi-Fi in Charles De Gaulle, but if not, I'll be writing you all from Madison next!!!

From Dachau, Munich, and the Englischer Garten - October 30, 2008